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    Prijave

    Prijave na edukacije - OVDJE!
    26.01.2013.

    „Nošnja – simbol status – nošnja sjeverne Dalmacije kao pokazatelj odnosa između muškarca i žene“

    Monografija, Zadar, NMZ, 2012.
    Izdavač: Narodni muzej Zadar
    Za izdavača: Renata Peroš
    Urednica: Jasenka Lulić Štorić
    Lektor: Danijel Nečas Hraste
    Tekst: Jasenka Lulić Štorić
    Prijevod sažetka na engleski: Marko Lukić
    Fotografije: M. Babić, Natali Čop, Željko Karavida, Jasenka Lulić Štorić, Tomislav Pavičić, Radivoje Simonović, Antun Travirka, Nikola Vranić
    Crteži: Marija Vrkić Žuvanić
    Likovno i grafičko oblikovanje: Mladen Košta, Pixel g.t.o. Zadar
    Tisak: Denona d.o.o. Zagreb
    Naklada: 500
    ISBN: 978-953-7477-22-6
    Cijena: 90,00 kn

    Nošnja sjeverne Dalmacije kao pokazatelj odnosa između muškarca i žene

    SAŽETAK
    Ovaj rad imao je za cilj pokazati kako se patrijarhalni odnos između muškarca i žene u
    sjevernoj Dalmaciji simbolički izražava kroz odjeću, odnosno tradicijsku narodnu nošnju.
    Analiza tog simboličkog izraza temelji se na nošnji sjeverne Dalmacije koja se čuva u
    Etnološkom odjelu Narodnog muzeja Zadar, a datira od sredine XIX. st. do sredine XX. st.
    Nošnja je iz dijela dinarskog i jadranskog područja sjeverne Dalmacije.
    Ne samo da nošnja i dijelovi nošnje pohranjeni u Etnološkom odjelu Narodnog
    muzeja Zadar potvrđuju simbolizaciju patrijarhalnog odnosa između muškarca i
    žene, nego na to ukazuju likovni prilozi, obiteljske fotografije, objavljene fotografije iz
    svakodnevnog života i razglednice, te pisani izvori i terensko istraživanje na području
    sjeverne Dalmacije. U ovom radu ta se simbolizacija prati od sredine XVIII. st. do sredine
    XX. stoljeća.
    Različite boje patrijarhalnog odnosa simbolizirane kroz nošnju dinarskog i jadranskog
    područja rezultat su različitih prirodnih, društvenih i kulturnopovijesnih okolnosti koje
    su stanovništvo jadranskog područja usmjeravale prema svijetu. Ribarstvo i pomorstvo
    te obaveze prema Zadru, koje su se odnosile prvenstveno na stanovništvo koje najbliže
    gravitira Gradu, prisiljavale su ženu da preuzme i dio muških obaveza u obitelji. To joj je
    utiralo put ravnopravnijem položaju s muškarcem. Odlazeći u svijet bilo kao pomorac ili,
    kasnije (krajem XIX. st.), u ekonomsku emigraciju, muškarac se prilagođavao civilizacijskim
    tekovinama na koje je nailazio, te ih po povratku u zavičaj prenosio i na svoju užu obitelj
    i sredinu. Tako muškarac u jadranskom području prvi utječe na napuštanje nošnje i
    prihvaćanje gradskog stila odjevanja. Ti se procesi u nekim otočkim sredinama događaju
    već sredinom XIX. st.
    Iako znatno sporije, muškarac u dinarskom području također prvi mijenja nošnju
    jer je kao muškarac više orijentiran na vanjski svijet. Život u zatvorenijem okruženju,
    okrenutost autarkičnoj privredi te dugotrajna izloženost turskoj opasnosti razlog su
    kasnijeg napuštanja nošnje. Ženin ritam promjene nošnje u seoskoj tradicijskoj kulturi
    sjeverne Dalmacije ovisio je o intenzitetu i kvaliteti muških odnosa s vanjskim svijetom.
    Tako se najdulje zadržala ženska nošnja u Bukovici.
    Muzejska građa, svi vizualni prikazi, pisani izvori i terensko istraživanje potvrđuju
    da je simbolizacija patrijarhalnog vrijednosnog sustava kroz nošnju bila izraženija u
    dinarskom nego u jadranskom području čak i u XX. stoljeću, između dva svjetska rata. To
    znači da se u tom području još nisu počele događati znatnije promjene u društvenom i
    gospodarskom smislu, pa tako ni u vrijednosnom.

    KLJUČNE RIJEČI: nošnja, sjeverna Dalmacija, statusni simbol, patrijarhalne vrijednosti,
    dinarsko područje, jadransko područje

     

    The Costumes of Northern Dalmatia as Indicators of the Male and Female Relationship

    ABSTRACT
    This work aims to show how the patriarchal relationship between men and women
    in Northern Dalmatia is symbolically expressed through clothing/costumes. The analysis
    of this symbolic expression is based on the costume from Northern Dalmatia, dated
    from the mid 19th century up to the middle of the 20th century, and preserved at the
    Department of Ethnology of the National Museum in Zadar. The costume originates
    from the Dinaric and Adriatic area of Northern Dalmatia. The illustrations, family
    photographs, published images of everyday life, as well as postcards, written sources
    and a personal field research conducted in Northern Dalmatia confirm the symbolical
    value of the patriarchal relationship between men and women. This research follows
    this symbolization from the mid 18th century up to the middle of the 20th century. Both
    man and woman in their life journey from childhood to death, through their weekdays
    and holidays, by going from one structured period into another one, are accepting and
    confirming their gender context characteristic for the value system to which they belong.
    Puberty is a period in which gender differentiation, symbolized through the costumes,
    becomes completely recognizable. In the Dinaric and Adriatic region there are no major
    differences between young men and married men except for the differentiation related
    to their economic status. On the other hand, in this same region, the status of girls and
    married women is particularly symbolized through the costumes. Even the girls' costumes
    in the Dinaric region are differentiated by expressing the girls' bachelorette status, while
    in the Adriatic region there are no significant differences between girls and married
    women other than the lighter tones of costumes. Chastity is one of the essential marks of
    a girl which is also expressed through costumes, particularly through the headgear (the
    red hat as a sign of virginity in the Dinaric region, and the crown of the bride in the Adriatic
    region), while the young man has no such external symbols. A different understanding of
    sexuality of young girls and young men shows that society associates freer behavior with
    male identity because of their dominant role in culture. Masculine traits are especially
    prominent during the carnival, one of the annual traditions in which male supremacy is
    being expressed through the very possibility of wearing women's clothing and lascivious
    behavior not allowed to women. The female traits are expressed within the Adriatic
    region, through costumes, during mourning, while in the Dinaric area men have no signs
    of mourning because it is an expression of weakness, which for a man of the Dinaric area
    is unacceptable. When comparing songs from the Dinaric and Adriatic region, it becomes
    clear that the Adriatic area is far more sensitive to the relationship between girls and
    boys, while in the Dinaric area more emphasize is placed on the bachelorette status of
    girls. The different colors of the patriarchal relations symbolized through the costumes
    belonging to the Dinaric and Adriatic area are the result of various natural, social, cultural
    and historical circumstances which directed the population of the Adriatic area toward
    the rest of the world. Fishing and other maritime activities, together with the obligations
    70
    toward Zadar, concerning primarily the population gravitating towards the city, forced
    the woman to assume the obligations of the male in the family. This has paved the way
    to a more equal status of women and men. By going into the world as sailors or later
    (towards the end of the 19th century) as part of economic migrations, men adapted to
    the encountered civilization values, transferring them in turn to their own countries and
    their immediate family and surroundings. Therefore it is the man from the Adriatic region
    that first abandons the costumes and accepts an urban style of dressing. These processes
    within some island communities are already happening in the middle of the 19th century.
    Although more slowly, the men in the Dinaric area are also first in replacing costumes
    since they, as men, are more oriented to the outside world, although this occurs in much
    narrower terms than with men within the Adriatic area. Life in a more closed environment,
    the autarchic focus on the economy and the prolonged exposure to the Turkish threat are
    the reason for a later abandonment of costumes. A men's clothing element that in the
    Dinaric region persisted the longest was the red cap. The changes of woman's costume
    within the traditional rural culture of Northern Dalmatia depended on the intensity and
    quality of men's relationships with the external world. For example, women's costumes
    which resisted the change the longest were the ones in Bukovica. The museum archives,
    all of the visual images, written sources and the field research suggest that the patriarchal
    value system symbolized by the costumes between two world wars was in the Dinaric
    region more pronounced than in the Adriatic area, which means that in this area there
    were no significant changes occurring related to values or social and economic issues.

    KEY WORDS: costumes, Northern Dalmatia, status symbol, patriarchal values , the Dinaric
    region, the Adriatic region

     

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