„Nošnja – simbol status – nošnja sjeverne Dalmacije kao pokazatelj odnosa između muškarca i žene“

Nošnja sjeverne Dalmacije kao pokazatelj odnosa između muškarca i žene

SAŽETAK
Ovaj rad imao je za cilj pokazati kako se patrijarhalni odnos između muškarca i žene u
sjevernoj Dalmaciji simbolički izražava kroz odjeću, odnosno tradicijsku narodnu nošnju.
Analiza tog simboličkog izraza temelji se na nošnji sjeverne Dalmacije koja se čuva u
Etnološkom odjelu Narodnog muzeja Zadar, a datira od sredine XIX. st. do sredine XX. st.
Nošnja je iz dijela dinarskog i jadranskog područja sjeverne Dalmacije.
Ne samo da nošnja i dijelovi nošnje pohranjeni u Etnološkom odjelu Narodnog
muzeja Zadar potvrđuju simbolizaciju patrijarhalnog odnosa između muškarca i
žene, nego na to ukazuju likovni prilozi, obiteljske fotografije, objavljene fotografije iz
svakodnevnog života i razglednice, te pisani izvori i terensko istraživanje na području
sjeverne Dalmacije. U ovom radu ta se simbolizacija prati od sredine XVIII. st. do sredine
XX. stoljeća.
Različite boje patrijarhalnog odnosa simbolizirane kroz nošnju dinarskog i jadranskog
područja rezultat su različitih prirodnih, društvenih i kulturnopovijesnih okolnosti koje
su stanovništvo jadranskog područja usmjeravale prema svijetu. Ribarstvo i pomorstvo
te obaveze prema Zadru, koje su se odnosile prvenstveno na stanovništvo koje najbliže
gravitira Gradu, prisiljavale su ženu da preuzme i dio muških obaveza u obitelji. To joj je
utiralo put ravnopravnijem položaju s muškarcem. Odlazeći u svijet bilo kao pomorac ili,
kasnije (krajem XIX. st.), u ekonomsku emigraciju, muškarac se prilagođavao civilizacijskim
tekovinama na koje je nailazio, te ih po povratku u zavičaj prenosio i na svoju užu obitelj
i sredinu. Tako muškarac u jadranskom području prvi utječe na napuštanje nošnje i
prihvaćanje gradskog stila odjevanja. Ti se procesi u nekim otočkim sredinama događaju
već sredinom XIX. st.
Iako znatno sporije, muškarac u dinarskom području također prvi mijenja nošnju
jer je kao muškarac više orijentiran na vanjski svijet. Život u zatvorenijem okruženju,
okrenutost autarkičnoj privredi te dugotrajna izloženost turskoj opasnosti razlog su
kasnijeg napuštanja nošnje. Ženin ritam promjene nošnje u seoskoj tradicijskoj kulturi
sjeverne Dalmacije ovisio je o intenzitetu i kvaliteti muških odnosa s vanjskim svijetom.
Tako se najdulje zadržala ženska nošnja u Bukovici.
Muzejska građa, svi vizualni prikazi, pisani izvori i terensko istraživanje potvrđuju
da je simbolizacija patrijarhalnog vrijednosnog sustava kroz nošnju bila izraženija u
dinarskom nego u jadranskom području čak i u XX. stoljeću, između dva svjetska rata. To
znači da se u tom području još nisu počele događati znatnije promjene u društvenom i
gospodarskom smislu, pa tako ni u vrijednosnom.

KLJUČNE RIJEČI: nošnja, sjeverna Dalmacija, statusni simbol, patrijarhalne vrijednosti,
dinarsko područje, jadransko područje

The Costumes of Northern Dalmatia as Indicators of the Male and Female Relationship

ABSTRACT
This work aims to show how the patriarchal relationship between men and women
in Northern Dalmatia is symbolically expressed through clothing/costumes. The analysis
of this symbolic expression is based on the costume from Northern Dalmatia, dated
from the mid 19th century up to the middle of the 20th century, and preserved at the
Department of Ethnology of the National Museum in Zadar. The costume originates
from the Dinaric and Adriatic area of Northern Dalmatia. The illustrations, family
photographs, published images of everyday life, as well as postcards, written sources
and a personal field research conducted in Northern Dalmatia confirm the symbolical
value of the patriarchal relationship between men and women. This research follows
this symbolization from the mid 18th century up to the middle of the 20th century. Both
man and woman in their life journey from childhood to death, through their weekdays
and holidays, by going from one structured period into another one, are accepting and
confirming their gender context characteristic for the value system to which they belong.
Puberty is a period in which gender differentiation, symbolized through the costumes,
becomes completely recognizable. In the Dinaric and Adriatic region there are no major
differences between young men and married men except for the differentiation related
to their economic status. On the other hand, in this same region, the status of girls and
married women is particularly symbolized through the costumes. Even the girls' costumes
in the Dinaric region are differentiated by expressing the girls' bachelorette status, while
in the Adriatic region there are no significant differences between girls and married
women other than the lighter tones of costumes. Chastity is one of the essential marks of
a girl which is also expressed through costumes, particularly through the headgear (the
red hat as a sign of virginity in the Dinaric region, and the crown of the bride in the Adriatic
region), while the young man has no such external symbols. A different understanding of
sexuality of young girls and young men shows that society associates freer behavior with
male identity because of their dominant role in culture. Masculine traits are especially
prominent during the carnival, one of the annual traditions in which male supremacy is
being expressed through the very possibility of wearing women's clothing and lascivious
behavior not allowed to women. The female traits are expressed within the Adriatic
region, through costumes, during mourning, while in the Dinaric area men have no signs
of mourning because it is an expression of weakness, which for a man of the Dinaric area
is unacceptable. When comparing songs from the Dinaric and Adriatic region, it becomes
clear that the Adriatic area is far more sensitive to the relationship between girls and
boys, while in the Dinaric area more emphasize is placed on the bachelorette status of
girls. The different colors of the patriarchal relations symbolized through the costumes
belonging to the Dinaric and Adriatic area are the result of various natural, social, cultural
and historical circumstances which directed the population of the Adriatic area toward
the rest of the world. Fishing and other maritime activities, together with the obligations
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toward Zadar, concerning primarily the population gravitating towards the city, forced
the woman to assume the obligations of the male in the family. This has paved the way
to a more equal status of women and men. By going into the world as sailors or later
(towards the end of the 19th century) as part of economic migrations, men adapted to
the encountered civilization values, transferring them in turn to their own countries and
their immediate family and surroundings. Therefore it is the man from the Adriatic region
that first abandons the costumes and accepts an urban style of dressing. These processes
within some island communities are already happening in the middle of the 19th century.
Although more slowly, the men in the Dinaric area are also first in replacing costumes
since they, as men, are more oriented to the outside world, although this occurs in much
narrower terms than with men within the Adriatic area. Life in a more closed environment,
the autarchic focus on the economy and the prolonged exposure to the Turkish threat are
the reason for a later abandonment of costumes. A men's clothing element that in the
Dinaric region persisted the longest was the red cap. The changes of woman's costume
within the traditional rural culture of Northern Dalmatia depended on the intensity and
quality of men's relationships with the external world. For example, women's costumes
which resisted the change the longest were the ones in Bukovica. The museum archives,
all of the visual images, written sources and the field research suggest that the patriarchal
value system symbolized by the costumes between two world wars was in the Dinaric
region more pronounced than in the Adriatic area, which means that in this area there
were no significant changes occurring related to values or social and economic issues.

KEY WORDS: costumes, Northern Dalmatia, status symbol, patriarchal values , the Dinaric
region, the Adriatic region